The "caruggi" are the narrow roads of Genoa's medieval historic center; the "creuza", the steep mule path which, from the hilltops, descends into the valley; and the creuza de ma the road leading to the sea. Those familiar with the songs of Fabrizio De Andrè will have heard these words on numerous occasions. The singer-songwriter filled an entire album (Creuza de ma, 1984) with tales of the brothel-lined alleyways and the disreputable inhabitants of his beloved home city. Today, in Via del Campo, street and title of one of De Andrè's most famous songs, music lovers fill the Gianni Tassio Museum-shop, which documents the life and works of the great Genoa-born poet. Whilst the Caruggi has changed quite dramatically over the last 20 years (the houses of tolerance are no longer tolerated and a series of trendy shops, restaurants and bars, have taken their place), its narrow streets are still home to stalls and bakers shops selling the areas' traditional, deliciously fragrant fugassa.
From the caruggi, steaming focaccia in hand, we head towards the sea and the old port of Genoa. With the 1992 Colombiadi celebrations, the port received an impressive face-lift, becoming a spectacular water edge show case for some of Italy's most important works of modern architecture. The Bigo, in particular, has dramatically altered the skyline. From the summit of this unique rotating elevator, a magnificent 360° view of the city can be admired. The genius of internationally renowned and Genoa born architect Renzo Piano lies behind the Bolla, an immense glass bubble suspended on the water. Not to be missed, a visit to the nearby Aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, where to observe sharks, dolphins, penguins, seals and more than 600 other species. Also in the vicinity, the Museo dell'Antartide offers visitors the opportunity to discover the marvels of the Antarctic.
Back among the narrow streets of the historic center we come the one-time residences of two of the city's most famous citizens. The house where Giuseppe Mazzini once lived is now home to a Museum dedicated to the Unification of Italy, of which Mazzini was key advocate. The house where Cristoforo Colombo lived from the age of four, has also been transformed in museum, recounting the life of the great navigator, prior to his discovery of America.
Historic landmark of Genoa, the Lanterna is the city's 117m high two towered lighthouse. From the top of one of the towers, visitors are treated to a breathtaking view of Genoa and the bay. Another way to admire the city's coastline is to board one of the many boats which, from the port, take visitors on a trip along Genoa's shores.
For the entire length of the five kilometer long Corso d'Italia, we never once lose sight of the sea. This elegant promenade, lined with patrician villas on one side and bathing etsablishments on the other, leads all the way to Boccadesse, a charming district still largely inhabited by fishermen.
