"Irregular, contorted, grotesque and bizarre": this is how Baroque has been described. The style which dominated Europe between the 1600's and 1750's was, without doubt, an exuberant and theatrical one, characterized by bold massing, the play of volume and void, and a profusion of decorative elements that had no parallel in previous architecture. Between the provinces of Siracusa and Ragusa, between the Val di Noto and the Monti Iblei, we can admire a style within a style: that of "Ibleo baroque". This is where, in 1693, an extremely violent earthquake brought to the ground entire cities and, as a consequence, architects such as the Siracusa born Rosario Gagliardi were called upon to rebuild churches and government buildings.
The Sicilian city of Noto is widely considered the capital of Baroque, and often referred to as the garden of stone. Here any number of ornate churches and palazzi were realized using the pale yellow limestone which, at sunset, blushes a warm shade of pink. The main road of Noto, Corso Vittorio Emanuele, is punctuated by small squares each of which with its own marvelous baroque house of worship; churches such as that of San Francesco all'Immacolata, the Santissimo Salvatore Monastery, and the Convent of Santa Chiara. The corso opens on to Noto's elegant Piazza Municipio, home to Palazzo Landolina, Plazzo Ducrezio, Palazzo Vescovile and the city's spectacular Cathedral. In 1996, the dome and part of the main nave of the cathedral gave way, due to a post-seismic structural collapse. Reconstruction work took over ten years to complete.
As we travel from Noto to Ragusa we make a brief detour to visit Capopassero and the southernmost tip of Sicily, to see an ancient tuna fishery: an exceptional example of industrial archaeology. During the summer, Capopassero is the ideal place to take a dip in the crystal clear sea before heading to the nearby town of Pachino, famous for its cherry tomatoes: small globes of juicy perfection which more than merit their IGP status.
Another town of both artistic and gastronomic importance in the area is Modica: a spectacular baroque nativity scene positioned at the center of a valley. Modica is famous worldwide for its chocolate, a delicacy made here since the 16th century. The historic center was once divided by rival fractions and, for this reason, has not one but two cathedrals: the Church of San Giorgio and the Church of San Pietro. Also worthy of note is the 14th century Church of San Domenico, modified in the baroque period, was one of few edifices to have survived the violent earthquake of 1693.
Traveling towards Ragusa from Modica, we spy the ancient district of Ragusa Ibla, the old town, separated from the new town of Ragusa Superiore by a long and winding road. Much of the new town was constructed in the 20th century. The old city is predominantly baroque. Thanks to the advent of tourism, the once semi abandoned streets of Ibla are now lined with pretty little hotels and stylish restaurants. The cathedral of San Giorgio, with its characteristic baroque façade and immense flight of 250 steps, is widely considered to be one of Rosario Gagliardi's most successful works.
The last stretch of our journey takes us to Gela, to swim in the shimmering blue waters and bask in the sun on the sandy beaches of this ancient seaside city. Whilst in Gela we visit the Acropolis, to see the traces of an ancient Greek settlement founded, according to legend, following the instructions of the Delphic oracle.
