Milan is one of Europe's most fascinating and exciting cities and hosts two massive international trade fares but much from its past has been preserved. The old centre resembles a spider's web, at the heart of which is the monumental cathedral, The "Duomo, the second biggest in Italy after St. Peter's in Rome. Started in 1386, the building was not, in fact, completed until the beginning of the 19th Century. Outside, the building is a subtle mix of coloured marble. 135 spires rise upwards, the highest of which, 108.5, metres is topped with a gilded bronze statue of the Virgin Mary. The Cathedral is no less impressive inside.
Entering through a richly carved baroque wooden door in one of the ornate facades, you find a central nave and four side isles, paved throughout with white marble inlaid with red and black and lit by the colours from the magnificent stained glass windows. Interior ornamentation is heavy, as in the splendidly baroque canopied chapel dedicated to the Virgin. Amongst the treasures of the cathedral are Giacomo dei Medici's tomb by Leone Leoni and the gruesome, but anatomically correct, statue of St. Bartholomew by Marco d'Agrate. The inside is amazing but don't miss the opportunity of ascending to the roof to stand amongst the marble spires and take in the sweeping panorama of the city below.
To the side of the Cathedral you will find the Royal Palace, once Milan's medieval city hall then home to the aristocrats of Milan. The building was bombed in World War II but the beautiful hall remains. The palace houses art from medieval times up to the present. North of the Cathedral now to experience the leisurely side of life in Milan - in the complex arcade of shops known as the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. Under the glass roof of this '''19th century construction, with its marble floors there are expensive fashion shops, jewellers, book shops, cafes and restaurants.
Walking through the Galleria you reach another landmark synonymous with Milan - the Scala Opera House - where music by Rossini, Bellini and Verdi was played for the first time and famous singers such as Pavarotti and Callas performed. The theatre was closed for complete renovation in 2001, reopening in 2004. The Scala appears a little inconspicuous from the outside; you need to go inside to appreciate its true splendour.
To the West of the Cathedral is one of the oldest churches in Milan - the Basilica of St. Ambrogio. The church was consecrated in 386 by St, Ambrose who, when he died in 397 was buried there beside the martyrs, St. Gervase and St. Pratsus (the church is an important symbolic site because the martyrs represented Milanese ecclesiastical independence). A Benedictine monastery was built beside the church in 739 and in the 9th century a simple bell tower, the Monks Tower, was constructed. Another tower was added in the 12th century. Inside there is a vast arcaded atrium. The building was completed with a three arched loggia in 1889. Despite bomb damage in 1943, many valuable mosaics and frescos survived to be seen today.
One of the world's best loved religious paintings was also spared the destruction of World War 11 - the Last Supper. Leonardo da Vinci's famous depiction of Christ's last meal on earth is to be found on the refectory wall of the convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie. This convent and its church were completed in 1469 and are a combination of Gothic and Renaissance styles. On the wall opposite the "Last Supper" is a painting by Montefano of the Crucifixion.
The Parco Sempione lies to the North of Santa Maria delle Grazie, surrounding the immense stronghold of the Sforzas, Castello Sforzesco. Now a peaceful museum, the castle was the scene of a fierce five day battle between the Milanese and Austrians. From 1450 the fortress was home to the Viscontis but only the cobbled Rochetta courtyard gives any suggestion of the elegance they created. Inside there are well displayed military, archaeological and art collections (you will find the Rondanini Pieta by Michaelangelo and Frescos by Leonardo da Vinci here).
Other important works of art are hung in the nearby Brera Gallery - one of Europe's finest galleries. Amongst many others there are works by Mantegna and Piero della Francesca. At dusk the area around the Brera and the neighbouring Navigli district typify another facet of this great and varied city - the exuberant nightlife.


