Where once there were volcanoes now there are now often lakes. In Italy, it is in the Lazio region that this phenomenon is most evident - in the lakes of Bolsena and Bracciano. Lake Bolsena, in the Viterbo provence, is the largest crater lake in Italy (with a perimeter of 43kms). Lake Bracciano, the second largest (its perimeter measures 32kms), is in the province of Rome.
These immense basins of crystal clear water are also incredible ecosystems, where the land is particularly fertile and offers the ideal habitat to any number of rare species of plants and animals. The lakeside of both Bolsena and Bracciano have been inhabited since the times of the Etruscans. Today, those holidaying on the lake shores enjoy days devoted to exploring its historic towns and castles, and practicing a variety of sports, either on the water (sailing, diving, fishing and windsurf) or in the surrounding hills (trekking and mountain biking).
This itinerary commences in San Lorenzo Nuovo. The history of the town begins in the 18th century, when Pope Clemente XIV decided to move the old town of San Lorenzo, built on marshy land prone to malaria, to a more healthy area. The new San Lorenzo was constructed to resemble an ideal city, according to 18th century architectural ideals. Today, the town appears almost exactly as the Pope had himself envisaged it, the extreme linearity of the urban plan interrupted only by the octagonal form of its main piazza, over which the Church of San Lorenzo reigns supreme. Inside the church, a number of canvases painted by Vasari are conserved, as well as a bust of Pope Pius VI, believed to be the work of Canova.
From San Lorenzo Nuovo we head to Bolsena, the town which gave its name to the Lake. Once an ancient Etruscan colony, the town acquired world wide fame following the miraculous event which occurred here in 1263. The Bolsena Miracle reportedly took place in the town's Collegiate Church of Santa Cristina when, during mass, the host began to bleed in the priest's hands. Today the event is remembered each Corpus Domini with a 3km long display of floral compositions, or Infiorate. The miracle brought Bolsena both fame and prosperity, ensuring the town's inclusion on the Via Francigena pilgrim route from Canterbury to Rome.
Famous for its Est!Est!Est!, Montefiascone is not only a favorite destination among wine lovers, but also has, arguably, the most beautiful view of Lake Bolsena. An ancient papal possession, the town has a number of impressive religious edifices: such as the Cathedral of Santa Margherita, which has the second largest dome in Italy after that of St Peter's in Rome, and the curious double church of San Flaviano, a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture.
Since the middle ages, Lake Bracciano has been associated with the powerful Orsini dynasty. A feudal residence belonging to the family can be found in each and every one of the picturesque towns overlooking the lake: Trevignano Romano, Anguillare Sabazia and, of course, Bracciano, where the Castello degli Orsini takes on fairytale like dimensions. Built in just 15 years, between 1470 and 1485, the castle, from which a magnificent view of the lake can be seen, is open to the general public and offers visitors a unique opportunity to catch a glimpse of court life in the 15th century, observing frescoes, wooden ceilings, enormous fireplaces and even kitchens complete with old cooking utensils.
