The bay of San Michele di Pagana lies tucked behind a bend in the panoramic coastal road which from Santa Margherita leads to Rapallo. The village's Prelo beach is sheltered by Pagana point, a woody promontory on which to find one of the few Saracen Towers to have survived the passage of time intact.
Embedded in a green crown of the hills, Rapallo is situated just 2kms from San Michele di Pagana. Rapallo is famous for its bobbin lacework, and the town's museum contains a great number of rare and invaluable examples of the art. The town is also known for its sea edge Castle, built in 1551 so as to defend the area from the frequent incursions perpetrated by the Saracen pirates. Now a popular destination for golfers, Rapallo boasts a superb 18 hole course. Perched on the summit of one of the hills overlooking the bay of Rapallo, lies the Sanctuary of Nostra Signora di Montallegro, one of the most important places of worship dedicated to the Virgin Mary on the Riviera di Levante. The sanctuary was constructed in 1560. The altar is adorned with a precious Greek-Byzantine icon of the Dormitio Virginis, image which, according to local legend, was entrusted to a local farmer by the Madonna herself who, apparently, also left instructions to build a suitable edifice in which to house it.
From Rapallo, the Via Aurelia directs us to Zoagli, town known for its textile industry and the high quality of its velvet, damask, silk and brocade. The 18th century Church of San Martino houses two wooden sculptures attributed to Maragliano and a Madonna and Saints painted by Teramo Piaggio. The Castle of the Counts Canevaro on the Torre promontory is well worth a visit.
Between Zoagli and Chiavari lies the Sanctuary of Nostra Signora delle Grazie, in which to admire beautiful frescoes of the Life of Christ and the Last Judgement, painted by Luca Cambasio in the latter half of the 16th century.
Travelling onwards for a further 4kms, we arrive in Chiavari, the undisputed capital of the Tigullio. Inhabited since the 8th century B.C, in medieval times the town established itself as important maritime center and trading hub. The magnificent medieval porticoes of the "Caruggio drito" - the heart of the old town of Chiavari - testify to the town's past splendour. Today Caruggio drito is, above all, an affirmed favourite amongst shopoholics. Here, on the second Sunday of each month, an important antiques market is held beneath the porticoes.
Known since medieval times for its able carpenters, Chiavari gained international fame thanks to the talent of Gaetano Descalzi, creator of the "Chiaravine" chairs. Noteworthy buildings in the historic center include the 13th century Palazzo dei Portici Neri. The elegant Palazzo Rocca, erected by the Marquis Costaguta in 1629 is now home to an Archaeological Museum containing artefacts from the pre-Roman necropolis discovered in the area in 1959.
From Chiavari we head to Lavagna and the Riviera's longest beach. Historically, Lavagna was the Feudal stronghold of the powerful Fieschi family, were responsible for the building of the Basilica of San Salvatore in nearby Cogorno. This church, one of the finest examples of the Ligurian Gothic style, served as private chapel of the 13th century residence of Sinibaldo Fieschi, better known as Pope Innocent IV.
11kms from Lavagna lies Sestri Levante, situated on the South-Eastern point of the Gulf of Tigullio. Just like the writer Hans Christian Andresen, visitors to the town will be struck by the immense beauty of its coastline, characterised by bays and inlets in which to find glorious beaches of fine golden sand.
Equally as beautiful, is the nearby Regional Nature Park of Punta Manara, with its shady gorges, and lush woods of pine and holm oak. From the center of Sestri in a few minutes we come to Riva Trigoso, where the "leudo rivano" sailing boat was once manufactured. These two-mast vessels were designed to transport wine, cheese, oil, and other goods along the main Mediterranean sea routes. The "Sagra del Bagnum", one of Liguria's oldest gastronomic fairs, celebrates the era when bagnum, a nourishing concoction of anchovies and sea biscuits, was used to sustain sailors during their long voyages.
